What are insulation R-Values all about anyway? The technical definition tends to be rather complicated, but simply put – the higher the insulation’s R-Value rating, the better the insulation will work to thermally retain heat. The R-Value varies according to the material that the insulation is made of and its thickness.

When considering the best insulation for homes, it’s also important to factor in the climate, local building codes, and perhaps most importantly, the ability to install the insulation product. For example, when building a new house, it’s possible to use any almost insulation available because of the ease of open access.

But remodeling or renovation renders this tactic a little more difficult. I have lots of practice remodeling and renovating older homes and believe me, sometimes it’s impossible to get access to certain areas in order to apply the insulation without totally opening up the walls.

In many of the older homes I’ve worked on, the best option has been to blow cellulose insulation into the walls through small drilled holes. While cellulose doesn’t necessarily have the very best R-Value of all types of insulation available, one thing is for sure – having some kind of insulation is absolutely better than having none at all.

Spray in foam is really popular these days in new construction for its ease of application and cost worthy effectiveness. Many formulas are soy based and engineered to be environmentally friendly themselves while helping lead to a greener home through saved energy costs at the same time. This type of insulation does require professional application.

Fiberglass batting insulation is probably the best for do it yourself installers, although it still requires practice to get a tight fit and proper seal. Usually installing fiberglass insulation in the attic or other exposed areas is relatively simple, but again, insulating a home’s walls will require open access.

Ultimately, if you’re getting sick and tired of ultra high winter heating costs, now is time to take action and do something about it. Just remember, no matter the R-Value, any insulation is an improvement over no insulation!

That’s when we decided to start seriously looking at their home insulation. Whether you’re buying a home or making your home more energy efficient, here are some home insulation tips you should find useful.

Home Insulation Basics

Regardless of the type of insulation you use in your home, it serves the same purpose – to prevent heat transfer. During the winter, you want to keep the cold air out and the warm air in. During the summer, it’s just the opposite. Reduced heat transfer means your home is able to maintain a stable climate and that puts less strain on your heating/cooling system which, in turn, reduces your energy costs and extends the life of your equipment which also saves you money in the long run.

A common question people ask is how to determine the energy efficiency of a given type of insulation. The answer is you compare R-values. R-value is a figure which represents how strongly the material can resist heat conduction. High numbers mean less heat transfer and greater energy efficiency.

Types of Home Insulation

Possibly the most challenging part of choosing home insulation is wading through all of the varieties on the market. Each type has advantages and disadvantages so you have to weigh those issues and consider what fits your particular needs the best. For example, spray foam insulation can be applied in some quantities and also provides some sound insulation which is nice if your neighbors are close. The foam can also increase the stability of the structure and some types are even fireproof. On the down side, you’ll need to use drywall or some other type of fire barrier with most spray foam because when it burns it releases toxic fumes into the air. Over time the insulation shrinks and becomes less effective.

Another common option is known as loose fill insulation. This was the option we chose for my in-law’s home. While loose-fill does not provide the greatest energy efficiency, it is safer for the environment and for humans, plus it’s one of the most cost-effective choices available.

Basically, loose fill materials are blown into the attic, between the walls, and in the ceiling of the home by a professional contractor. You can choose from a number of different materials, including cellulose, fiberglass, granulated cork, cotton, and wood chips. Many of the materials available are recycled so this insulation method may be a good choice if you are concerned about the environment.

These are just a couple of the choices you’ll have to investigate. Take some time and do your research. You need to find a good balance between safety, price, and effectiveness. It’s not an easy chore but your reduced heating/cooling bills will definitely be worth the effort in the end.

Of course, the Energy Star program is actually a government program intended to make it easier for the consumer to identify and understand products that are considered more energy efficient than others. The standards for energy efficiency have greatly increased over the last several years – so much so that my wife was actually able to talk me into replacing our 15 year old refrigerator even though it still functioned perfectly. The thing is, the newest Energy Star refrigerators are twice as efficient as those from just 10 years ago, saving a ton of electricity and money.

Reading the EnergyGuide labels on the appliances you’re considering is a great place to start. Let me tell you how I decipher the information. I’ve found it’s best to narrow down the choices according to groups in the same size and capacity range first. Then I look at the labels for the models that have the very lowest estimated yearly operating cost to identify the most efficient of the bunch.

Please be aware, however, that just because they look efficient on the label doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re Energy Star compliant. The Energy Star badge is reserved for the best of the best that go well beyond the government requirements for efficiency. I’ve learned that it’s generally safe to assume that an appliance is efficient if it has an Energy Star label, even without trying to calculate every kilowatt.

I’m certainly pleased with our new Energy Star refrigerator-freezer combo. It’s does a big part in helping us fulfill our mission to keep our home as green as possible. Plus, it saves us a healthy chunk of change on our monthly utility bill, easily earning my seal of approval.

Have you seen the Energy Star ratings labels on appliances lately while shopping for new appliances? All different types of appliances are given an Energy Star rating these days – from refrigerators, freezers, window or central air conditioners, furnaces, and water heaters to home electronics like televisions and computers.

Of course, the Energy Star program is actually a government program intended to make it easier for the consumer to identify and understand products that are considered more energy efficient than others. The standards for energy efficiency have greatly increased over the last several years – so much so that my wife was actually able to talk me into replacing our 15 year old refrigerator even though it still functioned perfectly. The thing is, the newest Energy Star refrigerators are twice as efficient as those from just 10 years ago, saving a ton of electricity and money.

Reading the EnergyGuide labels on the appliances you’re considering is a great place to start. Let me tell you how I decipher the information. I’ve found it’s best to narrow down the choices according to groups in the same size and capacity range first. Then I look at the labels for the models that have the very lowest estimated yearly operating cost to identify the most efficient of the bunch.

Please be aware, however, that just because they look efficient on the label doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re Energy Star compliant. The Energy Star badge is reserved for the best of the best that go well beyond the government requirements for efficiency. I’ve learned that it’s generally safe to assume that an appliance is efficient if it has an Energy Star label, even without trying to calculate every kilowatt.

I’m certainly pleased with our new Energy Star refrigerator-freezer combo. It’s does a big part in helping us fulfill our mission to keep our home as green as possible. Plus, it saves us a healthy chunk of change on our monthly utility bill, easily earning my seal of approval.

While I had anticipated doing the job myself, it didn’t take long to realize from my research that this was a task well beyond my abilities. I had to call in a contractor. Before I did that, I completed plenty of research to make sure I knew exactly what I wanted. Let me give you some advice that will help you do the same.

Home Replacement Windows: Plenty of Choices

As with almost any part of your home, your options are going to be enormous. One of the most popular options is vinyl replacement windows. They have decent insulation capabilities and have been tweaked to further improve their energy efficiency. Fiberglass is another option, but it is the most costly of your choices.

Wood has traditionally been the standard material used for framing. While it does serve as a good insulator, it’s not cost-effective or flexible enough to meet our modern needs. Basically, your best bet is to go the vinyl route.

If you choose vinyl replacement windows, you should consider having windows filled with a conductive gas to further increase their insulation capabilities. Usually that space is filled with nitrogen or ordinary air but you can now choose to fill the space with argon or krypton instead. These gases help reduce the transfer of heat between your home and the outdoors which means controlling your climate will require less energy. Krypton works better but costs more than argon but both will cost you more initially even though the energy savings will pay for the difference in the long run.

Home Replacement Windows: The Next Step

Replacement windows can be a very expensive, especially if you’re trying to do all of your windows at one time. That’s why I would recommend sitting down and coming up with a budget for the project. If your budget is very tight, you might be better off replacing a few windows now and the rest later. Also, plan on having the work done during the fall, spring, or early parts of summer and winter. You don’t want to wait until the weather is bad (i. e. hot, cold, snowy, rainy, etc.) since your house is going to be window-less for a period of time while the work is being done.

Once you decide what type of replacement windows you want you should start shopping around and seeing what different manufacturers have available. Prices will vary but, generally, you’ll pay more for quality. Look closely at the warranties being offered by the manufacturers, too. If a limited lifetime warranty is offered then pay attention to those limitations. A warranty for the life of the window is great but if it doesn’t cover much of what could go wrong then it’s worthless.

My advice is to start doing your homework in summer or winter so you’ll be ready to move ahead with the installation of you home replacement windows during spring or fall.

Last January, my local utility company more than doubled their rates.  The energy costs had been locked artificially low by a state-mandated 10 year rate freeze, but as soon as the freeze expired, the rates skyrocketed.  This rate hike was really an eye opener, as my heating bill for the blustery month approached $500.

The very first thing my wife and I did was purchase and install a Honeywell programmable thermostat for our home.  If you visit your local home center, you’ll find all kinds of automatic programmable thermostats in a whole range of prices.  I’d recommend stepping up to the best model your budget will allow– after all, you’ll probably recoup your costs with the money saved in just the first couple months.

Installing the programmable thermostat was a breeze.  For most standard household heating and air conditioning systems, there are just four color coded wires to be removed from the old thermostat and attached to the new unit.  When I installed mine, I did go ahead and shut off the power not only at my home’s main breaker, but also at the breaker on the outside of my furnace just to be safe.

But the best part came once I powered everything back up and programmed the thermostat.  I set it to maintain a cool 58 degrees during the daytime hours when nobody is home and kick up to 70 a half hour before we get home in the evening.  Then at night, it goes back down to 58 while we sleep and once again, back to 70 about thirty minutes before we normally get up in the morning.

I can honestly say we’re not chilly at night, being tucked in under the blankets and in the morning when we wake up, we never even knew we had turned the temp way down.  Same goes when we’re away at work during the day.  Believe me, the money saved really adds up too!

Energy Saving Tips: Electronics

One of the biggest drains on your energy consumption are your electronics, and if you’re like most families you’re probably have plenty of electronics on right at this moment. From computers to big screen televisions, all of these devices are increasing your bill.

You can save money by turning your computers off or having them hibernate whenever they are not being used. If you’re using a laptop, close the lid any time you don’t need to use it. Make sure your monitors are also turned off – they can use almost as much energy as the computer itself.

Also, make sure you turn off your television. Don’t leave it on all day and night as background noise. If nothing else, use the sleep timer included on most sets to have the television turn off automatically if you think you’ll forget to do it yourself.

Energy Saving Tips: Appliances & Lighting

Lighting your home may not be the largest part of your energy bill, but it can add up. Obviously, you should keep your lights turned off whenever possible to save energy. Another idea is to invest in fluorescent light bulbs. They last longer and save you money in energy costs, but they do cost more than ordinary bulbs.

Dishwashers and washers & dryers are definitely convenient, but they can also cost you more in energy costs. At our house, we have a rule: full loads only. If we only have a couple of dirty dishes, then we wash them by hand or rinse them then wait for more dishes to accumulate. The same is true with laundry. You can also choose to air dry your dishes instead of having them dried in your dishwasher.

I’d also recommend lowering the temperature on your hot water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. You’ll still be able to take hot showers and clean your dishes, but you’ll also be able to shave a few dollars off your heating bill.

Energy Saving Tips: New Appliances, Windows, & Doors

If you really want to cut your energy bill, then you’ll need to make some investments in your home. Doublepane windows, for example, are more energy efficient and will lower your heating/cooling bills considerably, especially if you look for high-performance glass. You’ll also want to look for more energy-efficient doors and consider sealing up the cracks – those cracks can increase your bill more than you think.

Additionally, if you consider buying new appliances look for EnergyStar products. These products have been certified as more energy efficient so simply using them instead of your older appliances can save you money.

Initially, my wife thought I was completely nuts when I shared my latest energy saving scheme with her. Even though it saves money in the long run, spending hundreds of dollars for new lightbulbs seems like a radical idea.

Checking out several energy savings calculators together, I was finally able to convince her this was a great idea after all. We went from room to room with pen and paper, keeping tally of how many and what wattage bulbs we’d need to purchase.

There are several types of energy saving light bulbs available, from popular compact fluorescents (CFLs) to the promising but not yet perfected LED variety. CFLs are widely available and have been totally refined compared to the novelties you might remember from a few years ago. They turn on instantly, don’t flicker, and have pleasantly bright light quality.

But here’s where it gets really cool – A 22 watt CFL replaces a traditional 100 watt incandescent, an 18 watt bulb for the old 75 watt standby, and so on. Although initially more expensive to buy, they’ll last way longer than the old burnouts.

Skipping over three-ways and specialty appliance bulbs, we ended up purchasing a total of 18 energy saving bulbs at the cost of nearly $55. We even found decorative style bulbs that look just like their traditional counterparts, not like weird ice cream swirl cones plugged into a ceiling fan.

Installing all these new lights did take some time, but even though the CFLs are often a bit larger sized, with the exception of just one lamp, all the bulbs fit just fine in the fixtures throughout our home. We were instantly pleased with the light output and knowing that we’re also saving tons of energy at the same time.

The best part comes with the first electricity bill after the switch. We saved almost $10 that first month alone. Imagine how the future savings will add up at that rate. It’s certainly worth the investment!